Scotland - Day Nine

cazphillips2
Nov 19, 2024
3 min read

Day 9 and two things suddenly occurred to me, firstly - over a week has already gone and b) every day is now Sunday.

I made new friends this morning. I had kippers for breakfast, and they then stayed with me all day, but it was worth it. In actual fact, today is the first day I hadn’t had haggis for breakfast since I got here. So I had it for dinner. I’m a haggis hag.

(As a side note, I cannot recommend the Crofters Rest at the Arisaig hotel more highly; super friendly, warm and cosy and outstanding food. Top tip - have the mussels.)

Today saw us leave Clan Cameron country or “my gaff” as the Favourite Husband calls it and head over the sea to Skye. Not on a bonnie boat, but via the bridge.

(The Favourite Husband is still not desperately enthralled with the car. I suggested that if you squint whilst looking at it, I think it could pass for a Porsche. It didn’t work for him.)

But first, Eilean Doan castle. Now this was one of my 428 “Must See’s” and I was excited. I don’t usually get excited for a castle unless I’m viewing the “for sale” ones online whilst pretending I married well. But this one I was. I think it’s the setting of it, on its very own island, population - one. I hadn’t realised it was such a short distance from the mainland. More on a jut than an island. We had some rain, and we had the dramatic stormy skies again and it was, once more, eerily beautiful. You’re not allowed to take pictures inside but there are some QR codes you can scan on your way round for additional stories to those on the displays.

I always enjoy the kitchen quarters in the castles or old properties. The Favourite Husband almost ruined this one when he sidled up behind me and lent in close to my ear.

“Not here” I smiled, playfully pushing him away.

“I just read a fabulous idea that could catch on,” he whispered, “we should discuss it. They call it a budget …” As he breathed down my neck.

Dirty blasphemer.

And then it was back in the “Porsche” and over the Skye bridge. About a quarter of an hour along the road he suddenly swerved into a parking bay and slammed on the brakes. COWS!!!

We both agreed that this was actually the highlight of the day. I talked yesterday about the unexpected speckles of delight and here we were, blessed with another, like a sprinkling of fairy dust.

We popped into Portree via a pit stop at the Skye Candle Company, both of which were just perfect. There didn’t seem to be a whole lot at Portree, several welcoming looking pubs and lots of gift shops. A few restaurants that might be worth exploring.

Then it was off to Old Sligachan Bridge and the Heroes of the Hills sculpture against the dramatic backdrop of the black Cuillin mountains. The bridge was thought to have been built in the early 1800’s. It’s a pretty bridge with three slightly uneven arches. But it is so much more than that. You see Old Sligachan Bridge holds magical powers. It is believed that the fierce female warrior Scáthach fought the Irish warrior, Cú Chulainn but her daughter, terrified that her mother would lose this battle, fled to Sligachan Bridge and wept tears of despair. The fairies there told her to hold her face under the water for 7 seconds and then she would know how to stop the fight. Legend has it that anyone brave enough to dip their face in the water for the full 7 seconds will be granted eternal beauty by the fairies. Now obviously this is what I came for. This is why I’m here. I need this in my life. I will have to go full frontal and I’m quite sure I’ll end up toppling in, but what price beauty right? The Favourite Husband said “everyone will already think you’ve done it, look at you, you’re beautiful.” Clearly trying to make up for his budget comment earlier. Although he closely followed up with he’d help me by holding my face under if required. He’s good like that.