Scotland - Day Thirteen - Ullapool to Thurso

Day 13 - Unlucky for some and yet, no drama.

It’s nothing short of a miracle. We had no near-death experiences, no high-risk activities, just cruising. The only remotely interesting thing really was that the Favourite Husband was not well today. I, on the other hand, was fabulous, although tired. He’s not sure if it’s a tummy bug or something he ate, but he’s a peculiar shade of pistachio and can be found in the vicinity of the nearest bathroom. So, it was mightily unlucky actually, for him anyway, that today involved a 4+ hour drive from lovely Ullapool to Thurso. Whilst we have roughly picked up the North Coast 500 (NC500) we’re not being particularly religious over following it precisely. The route is actually 516 miles long (for the pedantic amongst us) around the North of Scotland and can be done in either direction. You, the traveller, decide what places of interest you want to see and stop off wherever you choose along the route. There has been much in the news recently about the NC500 and recommendations not to do it due to what is referred to as “over-tourism.” We didn’t get any sense of that due to the time of year we chose to visit.

Day 13 started with a spectacular sunrise over Ullapool and after an early and hearty breakfast, for me at least, we set off. We had some great scenery along the way, plenty of wild, red deer, even just stopping mid run on the road in front of us. Pretty much the word for the day has been “wow.” I’ve chosen several little white crofters' cottages for myself. I like the ones where they sit defiantly all alone, fiercely independent screaming “Look at me! Don’t look at me!” Loch Eriboll particularly appealed, a small “safe haven” harbour sounded like what I’m looking for. Somewhere to reside in semi-solitude, just me and a dog named Dog, although I’ll let the Favourite Husband call in on a daily basis.

I also chose a house that was actually just a turret. Just the one. No house attached. Fabulous.

We passed Ardvreck castle ruin. Proudly holding on to the rocks on the edge of Loch Assynt. Believed to date from around 1490, it is beautiful. I think my phrase to describe it would be similar to that which I’d use to describe myself; “small but determined …”

We were heading for Smoo Caves, but before we stopped there we visited Cocoa Mountain at Balnakeil. This is an unusual, nondescript shop at the entrance to a campground. Do not be deceived. I had a delicious hot chocolate made with real, actual, melted chocolate (and a warm croissant) whilst the poor Favourite Husband, still an unsightly pallor akin to wallpaper paste complete with the sheen, sipped water. They sell handmade chocolates and slices that are impressive.

We then stopped at Smoo Caves. The directions were slightly confusing. They seemed to suggest there was paid parking and quite a walk. We skidded into the small car park by the public toilets (I don’t need to explain why) which was free parking and a few minutes down to the caves. Maybe we weren’t meant to park there but we did. We walked down to the first chamber which is the sea cave. What makes Smoo Cave unique to the UK is the first chamber is caused by sea water erosion and then the second by freshwater. It is no longer at risk of tidal flooding due to the drop in the seabed (I think …) and then you walk over a little wooden bridge to the second chamber which is where the fresh water comes in via a 20 metre high waterfall. The sea cave and main chamber are big, biggest in the UK apparently, the entrance is around 40 metres wide and 15 metres high. It’s very pretty, they have it beautifully lit, and it's weirdly soothing. Unless you need the loo, like the Favourite Husband, and then it seems a long way back up. I wouldn’t say it’s worth a special, out of your way trip, but if it’s on your way then definitely. It’s free, but you can pay (cash only - it’s a cave dontchaknow) and you get a guided tour in a dinghy to the third chamber. Like a mysterious inner sanctum. Or a members' lounge. Maybe there’s a swim up pool bar with frozen margaritas and a petting zoo of beagle puppies? Or maybe not. I can’t see why you’d need the hard hats if that was the case.

Onwards and we found the “Crumbs” cake cupboard but sadly no cake today. I was most put out, it would’ve been the only opportunity to indulge and not have to share due to the unwell Favourite Husband. We shall have to return.

Then it was on to Thurso. We are in a self-catering house for 3 nights and it feels rather nice to be able to go to the supermarket, visit the library and get some email admin done, whilst the Favourite Husband can sip water and watch me eat.

Thurso town centre is compact. It was hard to tell if some of the shops were open or not, but we found a nice cafe and the usual plethora of charity shops.

This is our base to explore the top of the North without visiting the islands, which will be the next trip. Thurso is the Northernmost town of Great Britain and surprisingly (to someone who failed Geography at school) it is actually further North than the Southernmost point of Norway, latitudinally speaking. As you do. The River Thurso flows through the town into Thurso Bay. Thurso looks out across the Pentland Firth across to the Orkney islands.

It felt like the day was mainly spent in the car today and I felt sorry for the Favourite Husband not feeling well. So I shall endeavour to cook him some healthy (and cheaper) food whilst I thrash the washing machine here to death.