Scotland - Days Eighteen - Nineteen - Inverness, Culloden and Clava Cairns

Day 18 - and nothing much happened.

I’m sure everyone’s been waiting for the day we did nothing. Here it is!

Got up, had breakkie, lit the fire, talked at length about what we could do. There was a discussion on whether we go to the Eden Court theatre to the afternoon performance of Alice in Wonderland by the Royal Ballet, but once the Favourite Husband established there was unlikely to be any opportunity for audience participation, he wasn’t so keen. So, the plan remained to do nothing. Go to the co-op, get snacks, retreat. Light the fire, watch Netflix and eat too much.

I’m a big fan of really bad weather. Torrential storms and I’m here for it. Why, you may well ask? Because then I feel no guilt about not going out. Not feeling I should be out “living my best life” because who’s to say my best life isn’t being overweight, eating junk food, lying on the couch, watching TV? I am a simple soul really and predisposed to utter idleness.

So, we had agreed the plan, movies selected, snacks at the ready, until there was a glimmer of sun around 11am and the plan changed. We popped into nearby Drumnadrochit (such a great name) and grabbed a quick coffee before heading to Culloden. The route took us over the River Ness and through what looked like an older part of Inverness. With proper shops and everything. So that’s my mission tomorrow. I’ve advised the Favourite Husband that I won’t drag him kicking and screaming around the shops but weirdly he seemed almost keen to come. I think this “budget” idea has really implanted a seed. I must ensure it is not watered.

Someone recently used the word “sobering” to describe their experience of Culloden and I’d agree with that. For those who don’t know the story, on the 16th of April 1746 the course of British history was forever changed when the Jacobite army, supporting Bonnie Prince Charlie, fought face to face with the Duke of Cumberland’s Government army. The Jacobites were exhausted, weak and starving, living on rations of just 3 biscuits a day. By comparison, the Duke of Cumberland’s troops, marching from Aberdeen, were fit and strong. Recognising their disadvantage, the Jacobites decided a surprise nighttime attack would be best. But their progress was too slow due to their exhaustion and so they had to rest before dawn. It was decided they’d fight there and then, depleted, exhausted and unprepared. It was a bloody and brutal battle that saw around 1,300 men killed, of which 1,250 were Jacobites. Shockingly it was a battle believed to only last about 40 minutes. This is around the same time it will take you to walk the paths through the battlefield. The Battle of Culloden was the last battle to be fought on British soil and the beginning of the end for many Scottish clans. The British government, upon their victory, introduced laws that included Banning the wearing of traditional Highland dress, along with the playing of bagpipes. Banning the speaking of Gaelic. Claiming the land and assets of those clan Chiefs who had supported the Jacobites. For me, it felt uncomfortable walking on the moor where all this happened. We found the Cameron Clan headstone, knowing that Culloden was basically the end of the Cameron clan. We had hoped to do the guided tour, but these had been cancelled due to the earlier weather. And I think in retrospect, doing the walk quietly, alone with your own thoughts, was in many ways better. I wish they’d taught history like this when I was at school. The museum, the sombre field, the headstones, the flags, the interactive demonstration; all of it bought it to life.

From Culloden we popped down the road to the Clava Cairns. (We’re having a full-on history lesson today kids. You know what they say, every day’s a learning day.)

The Clava Cairns are believed to date back 4,000 years. Let’s just let that sink in. So around the beginning of the Bronze Age. Why is the Bronze Age called the Bronze Age? Because it came third? No, (actually it was second, between the Stone Age and the Iron Age …) it was named after the use of Bronze in tools and weapons. Sorry, I’ve gone off on a tangent. The cairns are believed to be Bronze Age burial chambers with standing stones believed to have been placed to align with midwinter sun cycles. Just fascinating to walk around something so old. (Twice now we’ve been able to save a couple of pounds getting the Favourite Husband in on a senior rate, was not expecting to find so much that’s older than him! Who knew …)

And then it was back to our fabulous Air BnB and finally to our snacks and watch list.

Day 19 - and I think I have a new love.

To be fair, I’ve fallen in love several times during the last couple of weeks. I haven’t fallen out of love with the Favourite Husband so I think it’s ok.

Today I fell in love with Inverness. I knew very little about it and wasn’t sure what to expect, but I loved it. It could be the large number of decent shops within an easy walk of one and other. (I may have run amok after I left the Favourite Husband in a cafe.) It could be the beautiful river running through the centre and the Autumn trees serenading the banks. It could be how easy it was to park and find your way around. It could be the choice of restaurants and pubs that all seemed pretty inviting. It was just an all-round good feel. For me. I got the same from Glasgow and some people don’t, and that’s fine.

We started off at the Cathedral. Actually, that’s a lie. We started off at the Cathedral Café. Lovely coffee and a warm, friendly welcome. In order to increase our chances of getting to Heaven we opted to do their “pay it forward” scheme by “buying” a coffee in advance for someone who may need it, but is less fortunate than ourselves. Not sure it’ll work, but anything is worth a try at this point. Then on to the cathedral itself, very different to the others we’ve been to on this trip. Less grandiose and more of a familiar feel. More intimate than the larger ones perhaps. Nowhere was off limits, and there were helpful notice boards around the place. Definitely worth a visit. It’s not as old as many of the cathedrals we have seen, having been built around the mid-nineteenth century in a Gothic/Victorian style overlooking the River Ness, but it has a definite charm about it.

From there we had a walk along the riverbank (Ladies Walk actually, but I allowed the Favourite Husband to promenade with me) down and through Ness Islands. It was a stunning morning and the photos don’t do the colours justice.

From there it was into the old part of town to find the Old High Church. We went round the wrong side initially and found Leakey’s Books which had been top of my list to visit, but the website said it was closed Sundays and Mondays. But, proof if needed that I am blessed (may have been the pay it forward coffee,) it was open!! This absolutely filled my cup. I was like a pig snuffling for truffles. This would be my dream. Complete with spiral staircase and the biggest wood burner I’ve seen. This or the living in a lighthouse. Maybe both. No copies of my favourite Wuthering Heights but I managed to snaffle a first edition of something else for my virgin book collection. Having visited so many castles the last few weeks I’ve decided a library is on the home improvements list, so that’s that project started.

From here it was next door to the Old High Church. Perched on a rise overlooking the fast flowing river, services were first held here in 500AD. We learnt yesterday at Culloden that Jacobite prisoners were executed here, there are musket ball indentations around the stonework of the rear door and against one of the headstones they are believed to have been sat against, if too weak to stand. Another quiet contemplative reflection, much like yesterday.

From here it was off to the Victorian Market. I didn’t find any shops that particularly called to me here and the food hall was busy and noisy. So I left the Favourite Husband here. He’s slightly deaf so it doesn’t bother him. (Unless I mutter rude comments about him, then he has the ears of a bat.) I went off for a spot of retail therapy, there’s good independent shops and a good-sized mall all undercover, complete with (can I get a whoop whoop …) Marks and Spencer’s, including a food hall. This is a thrill when you live in New Zealand! What’s proving an issue is my default setting of wanting a Winter Christmas which I had for 30 odd years before I emigrated. So I’m naturally drawn to the Winter woollies and the Christmas sweaters. Knowing I’ll sweat to death if I wear them in December in NZ. What’s a girl to do? I was sensible. I only bought one. And the leg warmers. With matching hat.

We would have gone to the art gallery and museum, but again, things close on Sundays and it seems Mondays, so always check first. We knew this before we decided to come in the low season and it doesn’t bother us as we enjoy fewer people and the Autumn season. (Inverness Castle is also closed for regeneration.)

After a nice lunch we decided that was enough excitement for one day and returned to our cosy Air BNB in the countryside, that somehow withstood last night’s storms with no more than a twig down. Lit the fire and reflected on another great day.

Sure there have been a couple of things we haven’t done because of the weather, a few walks, a handful of sights but that’s life.

Inverness is definitely worth a visit, I’ll be back. Despite the Favourite Husband saying we can’t afford it after my shopping. Or indeed dinner ….