Scotland Days Twenty - Twenty One

Day 20 - and we only have one week left.

This time next week, we’ll be waiting for the overnight train to London for a final few days with family.

This holiday is going too fast, everyday whizzes by. Often when I’m away I get homesick, not this time, this time I’m not sure how I feel about going home.

We left Inverness and were sad to say goodbye to our lovely Air BnB hosts. Our first stop was the home of the world porridge championships itself! Carrbridge . Sadly we’d just missed the competition, so good job we were there to see the Carrbridge packhorse bridge, or coffin bridge if you prefer. The Favourite Husband was a bit bemused by this stop, but I figured it was on the way so why not. It is the Scottish Highlands oldest stone bridge, dating from 1717, when it was built to allow funerals to happen over the river at Duthil church. I’m unsure that the severity of the arch was the most practical of designs, and wonder if perhaps it was Hamish and Dougal down the pub who had an idea after a few beers, with the design scribbled on a napkin. In fairness I’ve seen pictures of the river at a raging high so perhaps they weren’t overly ambitious after all.

From Carrbridge we headed to Balmoral. I knew there was no access inside the castle, but I (who am not a royalist as such) wanted to see a current castle that had some grounding in relatability I guess. It was interesting to envisage the royal family actually here. And dear Queen Elizabeth, who as we know, died here. It is a lot smaller than I envisaged. We had a good nosy around the outside, the gardens, the cafe and the (expensive) gift shop. I figured I’m now basically royalty after spending almost the same time at a royal residence as Meghan Markle.

We decided to do the 30 minutes (ish) walk from Balmoral to see the Prince Albert Pyramid, basically one of 19 cairns (memorials) that Queen Victoria had installed in the grounds of the Balmoral estate. Huge bonus, we passed more Highland cows on the walk. Fun fact, you’ll see significantly more brown ones than black as old Vicky thought they were prettier. Be warned, after the first kilometre, there is a steep uphill for a further kilometre. It was actually hard work so clearly I haven’t been doing enough exercise over the preceding 3 weeks. But, if you are confident you’ll manage, it’s awesome. There’s a breathtaking beauty up there, with far, far reaching views over the Cairngorms and surrounding countryside. I wish I’d taken more pictures but there were a surprising number of younger, fitter people up there doing a variety of photo shoots and I didn’t want to throw them off their game by leaping in the air doing the splits or dry humping the corner of the pyramid.

On the walk downhill, when I was able to talk again, I asked the Favourite Husband “would you build a pyramid in memorial to me?”

He replied after a slight pause, “In a heartbeat.”

Too cute. “Would you?” I asked smiling.

“Yes. Out of Lego.”

I’m still not sure if he was being cute or being smart.

From Balmoral we headed off to Aberdeen for the next few days. We’re super tired tonight. I think the excitement of the Favourite Husband telling me he’d promoted me from navigator to co-pilot today and the associated celebration has exhausted me. That and basically now being a member of the royal family.

Day 21 - and we are in Aberdeen, which interestingly; does not appear to have an Aberdeen Steak House (yes, I know it’s the cut of beef, but still, opportunity missed.)

It has been a grey old day in the Granite City. Which only adds to the slightly austere appearance of the striking architecture that slaps you in the face at every turn. I love old things, the Favourite Husband being top of the list, but also buildings. I love character and history and different styles. I can appreciate the old and the new and Aberdeen delivers this marriage of the two in spades.

Today we left the “Porsche” in the car park, where along with Miss Leading, the sat nav, they could think about their behaviour and reach the same conclusion as us - try harder, do better.

So it was a walking day which meant we needed a good breakfast and what better way to start the day than with breakfast in a second hand bookshop? Books and Beans in Belmont Street was a delight and I came away with another classic for my library project when I return home. The Favourite Husband is concerned about what I like to refer to as “my purchasing power” and thinks the term I’m perhaps looking for is “compulsive consumerism.” I suggested he might want to go and join the car and the sat nav so he shushed then.

On our way to breakfast we deviated passed the William Wallace statue and through Union Terrace Gardens which was lovely and had some sculptures that were worth a look.

It was then off to the Aberdeen Art Gallery. Really good displays of various different genres and eras of art from your Monet and Rodin to Tracey Emin. I found the layout of the various galleries a bit confusing despite having a floor plan guide, so I may well have missed a fair chunk. But to be fair I can get lost in the supermarket car park, so it’s probably just me. The gallery is full of large groups of art students, which whilst making it seem busy, is really rather nice to see the enthusiasm of youth. Like I had; before I made bad life choices, found everything aches and then got tired. And fat. Or as I prefer, I’m 263 months post-partum.

After the Art Gallery we popped into Provost Skene’s House. Purported to be the oldest house in Aberdeen dating back to 1545, although it has been altered and added on to numerous times. It is named after Sir George Skene who was a prominent merchant trading with Poland and a Provost of Aberdeen. I had to look up Provost, and it is essentially an old term for an individual who would preside over the Council of Burgs or Boroughs. Inside are lots of interactive displays and history centred around prominent people associated with Aberdeen through history. It’s worth a visit for the painted gallery alone. Plus it’s free. (As was the art gallery.) My preference would have been to have more about the history of the house and the surrounds, but that’s just me.

We headed for the Tolbooth Museum from here, but were disappointed to find it was closed. I’d checked online last night and it had come up as “open from 10am” so I’m not sure what happened there. But undeterred we set off for St Machar Cathedral and Old Aberdeen. I loved the cathedral, it’s simply beautiful. Some very enthusiastic volunteers who gave us a lot of information (which I don’t retain well at my age sorry) also gave us a top tip, to pop into the tall, green, glass University building when we left and go up to the 7th floor for panoramic views of the town. Anyone can go up apparently. Great tip, that we promptly ignored as I needed food again! We did wander through the cemetery which gave us a glimpse of some of the older original cathedral remains.

Lunch (finally!) was at a fabulous cafe situated upstairs on the old High Street called Kilau.

Then a slow meander home through the University. No doubt leaving a trail of students in our wake wondering quite how “mature” mature students can be and surely there must be an upper age limit.

We were going to a restaurant called The Tipping House this evening for their early bird pre-theatre special but we decided we couldn’t not go to Ma Cameron’s, the oldest pub in Aberdeen. The Favourite Husband has been calling me “Ma Cameron” all day. It’s been the longest day of my life.

The Granite City has been a revelation. We’ve really enjoyed it apart from a tiny bit where we took a wrong turn and ended up in what felt like a bit of a dodgy area. I felt a little unsafe for the first time. Good job I’m married to such a hunk.