Wairere Falls and Te Aroha

It’s taken me until I am well in to my (cough) 50’s to admit to something.  It’s not an addiction as such, more a little secret.  Perhaps I am ashamed and embarrassed.  Maybe I feel a little grubby.  But it’s out there now.  I’ve said it out loud.

I really enjoy walking.

I have for decades.  When my large tribe of free-range children were young, walking the dogs was my only opportunity to get away from the chaos and the mayhem.  I remember one Christmas I asked for waterproof trousers to compliment my wellies and waxed raincoat so that I could be absolutely assured that nobody would suddenly pipe up with “I’ll come …” if I waited for torrential downpours before taking them out.  And so it began.  I really enjoyed walking and I really like the rain.  Which considering this began during a 10-year spell living in the South West of England on a Moor was really rather fortunate.

Walking has always been my therapy.  Walking a dog or dogs takes top billing for obvious reasons.  Walking a dog was going on a walk but with a purpose.  And you had choices.  In the early days it was silence.  An escape from the noise of home.  A time I could be alone with only the voices in my head for company.

Sometimes, when the children were older, it would be time for some one on one attention.  An opportunity to be with just one of them in the open sky outdoors, perhaps they could open up without the others listening and judging.

There were the times on wild and windswept beaches, when it was an opportunity to pretend that I led a different life.  More of a complicated and troubled heroine, fighting a good cause, and loving and being loved fiercely.

Then walking became a way of catching up with friends, when life was so incredibly busy because we thought we could have it all but in fact were just doing it all.  Multitasking extraordinaire. 

And then more recently it has become about relaxation, switch off time, listening to a true crime podcast to get some tips on disposing of bodies or singing along to uplifting music without the shame of anyone overhearing you.

I came out last year.  I fessed up.  I announced it, out loud, “I r4eally like walking.  I’m sorry.”  Ever the apologist.  The people pleaser.

“What are you talking about?” Enquired my 21 year old.

“I’m sorry. (Again.) I know how uncool that makes me sound.  I am officially old …”

“Only you would think that anybody would judge you for liking walking you weirdo.”  As they returned to things of far more interest than I, like Love Island and Tik Tok.

And so it was that Sunday saw us embark on a “moderate” hike, or tramp if you’re a Kiwi, about an hour from home.  Wairere Falls, in the Kaimai Mamaku Conservation Park.  From Tauranga head over the Kaimais and carry on straight as if you’re heading to Matamata, ignoring the turn off to Te Poi and Hamilton.  Just after the sculpture of the Moa on the right hand side is the turning for Old Te Aroha Road.  Follow this road along to the T-junction and then turn left and carry on.  You will see signs for the Wairere Waterfalls and then turn sharp right on Goodwin Road and follow the road to a large carpark with toilets.

It is about a 40-minute walk across a few bridges, some steps, tree roots and bush from the car park to the lookout.  There you get a great view of the falls, looking up.  Just before the lookout you come to some steep and seemingly never-ending stairs.  Be aware, these nearly killed me.  There are 121 of them.  I thought I was relatively fit, but these raised my heart rate to 182 bpm.  But push on as this, in my opinion, is the hardest bit.  Less than 5 minutes after the stairs you are at the lookout.  Looking up at the waterfall you can get some idea of its magnitude.  This is, after all, the highest (tallest?) waterfall in the North Island of New Zealand at an impressive 153 meters high.

After a stop for photos, water and a snack, press  on.  Don’t turn back, you can absolutely do this.  The hardest part was the stairs.  Yes there are some steep inclines and some steps, but just take your time and adopt the “one foot in front of the other” mantra and ignore your bursting heart.

In my head I was waiting for more stairs.  So imagine my skepticism and then delight when a chap who had passed us on the way up, then passed us on his way down, saying “you’re nearly there, you made it.”  (Not sure if he said that because he was being kind or genuinely concerned for my health.)  But turns out he was right.  A couple more meters and I could hear the water and then you are right there.  At the top.  There’s like a minifalls and then a flat bed of rock and then the actual sheer drop over the edge.  There’s a viewing platform which feels a bit precarious.  I can honestly say, I have never been at the top of a waterfall before and it was so cool. 

The water bed was so low that the Favourite Husband was able to walk right across to the edge.  If only I’d had a drone to bomb him with ….

From here it was back down to the lookout for a better photo without the earlier sun in our face and the back down the steep stairs to the carpark.  I had been worried about my knees on the way down but actually they were ok.

The entire walk was 2.5 hours and absolutely brilliant.

There is the otion to add an extra loop on to the walk.  As you turn back from the top there is a “Wairera Loop Track” this will take you off through bush.

From here we headed into Te Aroha and paid a visit to the mineral spa, private hot pools.  Despite being told that bookings were essential, thankfully they had a cedar hot tub available.  Got to be honest, my expectations were low and I was blown away.  Super staff and the nicest hot pool, complete with private shower and toilet.  30 minutes was $30 per person. 

After our hot pools it was off to the Domain Cottage Café for a late brunch, because why not?  Also excellent.

It’s a great day trip, 4.5*/5